Steering a horse with one hand adds an extra level of finesse to a western training program, however, teaching a horse to neck rein can be a bit of a mystery for many riders.
It is always appropriate to ride a horse with one hand when using a curb bit, which is any bit that operates on the principle of leverage, using a curb strap. How do you neck rein properly? How do you teach this skill to your horse? When do you switch from a snaffle bit to a curb? And why is it necessary?
WHY? The action of a curb bit enables a rider to use subtler rein aids and to ride with lighter contact than in a snaffle. Because the leverage action magnifies the rider's hand it takes less movement to achieve a lighter response for slowing the pace, steering or collecting. This is especially important when showing in pattern classes such as horsemanship, western riding and trail, which require absolute precision. WHEN? In the 3 year old year of most of my western horses, I will make the transition from snaffle to curb bit. It is a necessary part in the education of any western horse but whether or not I decide to show him in a curb or to remain in a snaffle or bosal will depend on the horse's style. If he's happy and responsive in a snaffle or bosal I may show him in that for a while longer. Some horses are naturally thicker and less responsive than others and the moving earlier to a leverage bit will help lighten their forehand. Horses in my program are ridden with one hand when their ready to show in pattern classes (usually by their fourth year) where they'll need more of a "handle" for intricate steering and flying changes. Be sure, before changing to a more advanced bit that your horse understands how to yield to your hand without question in the snaffle. Does he understand how to back up, and slow and compress his stride without resistance? Does he know how to move laterally from your leg aids at all gaits? Stronger bits are not a short cut to teaching these skills, but magnify the rider's request. However a stronger bit in the sensitive hands of an educated rider can be an effective tool. HOW? I introduce any new bit to a horse from the ground backing the horse and pulling his head from one side to the other, enabling him to discover that when he yields to it, he finds freedom from me every time. Once this is mastered, I follow the same routine from the saddle.To teach your horse to neck rein, he needs to learn that every time he feels the rein press across his neck, and he moves his neck away from it, he finds relief by the rein going slack. Because you will lift your hand up in the direction of your shoulder when you steer, you will collect your horse as well as direct him.
I teach this process of "collect and move your neck away from the rein" until it is mastered at a walk and jog before going to a lope. This may take up to 10 sessions before loping. It is important to remember that your neck rein only controls the head and neck of the horse while your leg directs the rest of him. He should learn that you will often steer his neck and head one directions while moving his ribs and hips in another. Finally, it is a good idea for you to ride with one hand only every time you choose a curb bit. Neck reining is a skill you will only develop with lots of practise and it soon will become as easy for you as riding with two hands.Lindsay Grice