2010 Q. I am looking for a horse for my 13-year-old son to show in youth events next year. (Trail, western pleasure and pattern classes are his favourites). Although he is a capable rider and says he’d prefer to have a “ training challenge”, I have been advised that buying a good-minded horse is most important. What exactly is “good minded” ? What should my expectations be of the horses we try out? A. A good minded horse is a must for any novice rider. We can be easily swayed by a beautiful mover or an attractive package but a good minded horse will often rise to the top at the novice level because of his reliability and consistency. I have had the opportunity to work with a few really good minded horses over the years . Training proceeds at a consistent rate because the horse is eager to learn and responsive to the rider’s cues. I would even go so far as to say owners of good minded horses spend less money on training. This kind of horse is not resistant or angry when asked to do something. He doesn’t need to be bullied or intimidated, but neither is he easily intimidated or overly sensitive. He isn’t particularly stressed when he’s in a new environment – he adapts well. He won’t be on the lookout for ways he can cheat (bulging toward the barn or cutting in on canter transitions). Photo provided by River Bend Designs On your horse search, ride your prospect in a different environment from his home territory. How does he adapt to a new rider? How does he react to the introduction of an unfamiliar skill? I like to bug a horse I’m trying out a bit by using a different cue and see how he reacts. A good minded horse has heart – he has the courage to push through , even if he’s sore or tired. He’s a pleasure to work with on the ground – he isn’t mouthy or pushy. Finally, good minded horses aren’t territorial or aggressive toward people or other horses. They don’t react if another horse comes too close and are easy to ride in those crowded exercise rings Qualities such as these give a rider confidence and can make up for having less talent. Q. I just started taking my mare to some horse shows this summer. She was distracted and constantly whinnied. This is frustrating and embarrassing! What should I do?What should my expectations be of the horses we try out? A. It sounds like your mare is anxious and seeking the security of a herd. Here are some skills to work on in order to keep her attention. INDEPENDENCE. I suspect your horse has some barn buddies and is used to hanging out in a group. You’ll have to wean her from them if you want to go to a horse show without them. Try moving her away from her close friends in the barn. Turn her out in a separate paddock. (You may want to do this gradually by putting her in an adjacent one first or giving her just one buddy before she goes solo.) Ride by yourself, or even board at another stable for awhile. PATIENCE. Tying up is a tremendous way to teach a horse to wait. Break up her routine. Instead of being turned out each day after breakfast, leave her tied in her stall or the arena for a while first. I usually won’t untie a horse until he is standing quietly without fussing. FOCUS. The trick to handling spooking, whinnying, barn sourness, and other similar behaviour is to get your horse to focus on you. Teach your horse skills at home to capture her attention and use them as tools in an unfamiliar environment to keep her concentrating. Leg yielding. bending, giving to the bit, and transitions are exersizes to keep your horse connected to you when she starts to lose it. I recommend longeing (in, or near the show ring if possible) before you climb aboard. When riding, watch her ears-they’re a good indicator of where your mare’s attention is directed. When you see them begin to prick towards the barn in search of her buddies, circle with some leg yielding or bending ,for instance, until you see an ear turn back toward you. Remind her that you are her herd leader and as long as she keeps her attention on you and let you make the decisions, she will be safe.

A. Although it's so exciting to get our young prospects out to see how they measure up to the competition, it's important not to rush the process. Going out on his first "field trip" can be overwhelming for a young horse whose training foundation has not been completely "set". I like to make sure my horse feels show ready in his home environment before I take him to a new place. If your pace, transitions, steering control, etc aren't in place at home, chances are things won't magically come together when you get to the show.

• DETERMINING DIAGONALS
  This involves two skills:
  1. Feeling the footfalls of your horse
  2. Timing the "rise" of your posting with the rise of your horse's outside leg. To feel the rhythm of the horse, some riders find it easier to concentrate on feeling the inside front leg hitting the ground rather than when the outside leg is swinging forward. Try to count "now" every time you feel that inside leg hit the ground and then glance down at the shoulder to see if you're right. Start at the walk and then move to the trot. Because the trot is a two beat rhythm, you can let yourself rock from side to side as you sit to a slow trot. You'll find that every time you sway to the left, your horse's left leg is hitting the ground. Some riders can almost hear the footfalls. After you count "now" consistently when that inside leg hits the ground ( or the outside leg rises) try to rise up at the moment you count. Working on one of the two skills at a time may make the job easier.
  
  
• LEARNING LEADS
  Once a rider is totally comfortable following the motion of the canter with her seat, feeling the lead becomes so much easier. Riders that are unsteady or rigid at the canter will have a hard time and probably need a ground person to let them know if they're on the wrong lead. Let your hips follow the motion of the canter. When I asked students what helped them learn to follow the motion, some said cantering on a longe line without having to worry about steering. Others said riding bareback (or at least without stirrups) Some said counter cantering (on purpose) helped make the lead more pronounced. Most riders said they couldn't remember how they learned to identify their leads, so don't worry, with more miles it will happen!

• TAKE NOTES DURING LESSONS Summarize the main points and record excersizes to practise at home. Briefly meet with the instructor and your daughter after the lesson and ask what he would suggest she work on in the week to come. Remember, your job is to help your daughter to formulate a practise plan but not to instruct her.
• VIDEOTAPE THE SESSION. Have your daughter watch the videotape by herself (without family, friends and other commentators.) This will give her an objective view of the skills that are looking good and those that need work.
• DECIDE ON A PRACTISE SCHEDULE. I have found that schooling several days in a row accomplishes more than an every other day plan.
• PRACTISE THE UNCOMFORTABLE. Most people have the tendency to keep repeating what they already do well. A profitable practise session also involves what doesn’t come easily. Encourage your daughter to push herself to practise skills more challenging ( slower, tighter, faster,etc.) than she may encounter in competition.
• COME UP WITH A LOGICAL PLAN. Every rider should have a lesson plan for his horse before he begins to work. Your daughter should be able to articulate what skills she will be working on before she climbs aboard. Teaching or refining her horse’s skills could be broken up with three minute segments of position strengthening excersizes for herself (riding without stirrups, two point position etc.)

A. Often when I am teaching a clinic or doing a consultation the owner will ask me to ride his horse. Whether a horse is very green, such as your horse, or even if he is supposed to be quiet under saddle, I have some prerequisites to riding that the horse must know. Test your horse with these skill before climbing aboard.

• Voice commands. Does he go forward on the longe when you cluck and stop when you say “whoa”? Does he understand that a kiss means canter and a low, spoken “trot” or “walk” indicates a down ward transition?
• Giving to pressure. A horse must yield to rearward bit pressure in his mouth and step sideways when I press on his side or shoulder. He should feel as soft as putty as he gives without argument on any part of his body when asked.
  
• Ground manners. Does your horse walk and stop attentively by your side as you lead him, waiting for your leadership? Does he stand tied and crosstied quietly?
  
• Travelling in a frame. I make sure a horse is comfortable moving from a trot to a balanced, organized canter on the longe line, in a collected frame, using side reins attached to the saddle.

After a horse knows these things, I will put my foot in the stirrup and stand up, almost lying across the saddle. When he is totally cool with this, I have an assistant hold him while I swing my leg over and then I will remain on the longe line while I teach the first lessons to simulate the skills he already knows. When he is going forward in response to pressure from both of my legs, moving sideways when asked with one of my legs and slowing the walk and trot reliably, I will ride free, off the longe. Taking it slowly will reduce the risk, not only of getting hurt, but also of confusing your horse.

Q. I have shown my mare in Hunter Under Saddle and Equitation classes this year and haven’t been placing as well as I had hoped. Although she is very tall and pretty with a long neck, she tends to travel in an “overbridled “ frame and rarely has her ears forward – she just doesn’t look happy! My trainer tells me to let her neck stretch out more, but when I give her more rein, she either speeds up or raises her head. I have tried going to a mild snaffle but I can’t keep her slow enough . Help!

A. What you describe is typical of many of the horses I see, particularly those with the long, graceful necks that we love! If you picture your horse in a box, with the front and the back of the box being contained by your hand and your leg, your horse is intimidated of the front door and so she hides in the comfort zone behind the vertical. Her self -protecting tension is much like being in the dentist’s chair when you are unsure if he is going to hit a sensitive spot – hard to relax!

Unfortunately, when a horse is tense through their neck and spine, there is no way to achieve that long swinging trot and slow legged canter that we desire. Instead of lengthening, they just get quick.

The solution is to teach your mare that it is “safe” to stretch long and low and to fill out the frame of the box. The solution is not necessarily in longer reins or a milder bit, but in having following, elastic hands that say “If you will stretch, I WILL go with you.”

Firstly, make a connection with your horse by taking back with your hands and asking her to yield to the bit. You will feel her soften to your hand and her ear will turn back to you This is the same as lifting a telephone receiver – you are now ready to begin a conversation. When she yields, immediately soften your elbows and follow her as long as she stretches out. If she makes a wrong choice (lifts her head up, looks to the side, speeds up, or hides even further with her nose into her chest) do not give with your hands. If you give consistently several times in a row at the moment she makes the right choice, she will deduct that the direction you want her to go is out. Often we can blow all that good progress by moving too quickly with our hands and snatching or surprising a horse.

Sensitive , rubberlike, following elbows are the mark of an educated rider and take some time to develop. Balance that with firm resistance when your horse makes the wrong choice, establish a pattern at the walk and then the trot before you canter, and you’ll be sure to have her stretching out!

Q. We are from Northern Ontario and there are no coaches in the area who specialize in my daughter's discipline of riding. Any suggestions to help her succeed in her riding?

A. Although living away from the hub of equine activity can be a challenge, it is possible to map out a plan to suit your needs. The inconvenience and cost of travel to shows and training help is, no doubt, discouraging. Here are some suggestions that have worked for long distance customers of mine, and ideas from fellow competitors hailing from remote locations.

BOARDING SCHOOL - Some people opt to send their horse to the trainer of their choice no matter what the distance. If this is an option for you and you don't mind being apart from your horse for several months, keep the lines of communication open with the trainer. Ask him what would be a convenient time to call and telephone for an update each week. I often send customers videotapes of training sessions. Travel to the trainer for lessons if you can and ask to see your horse worked. Take notes so that you can carry on with the same program when you bring your horse home.

VISIT A TRAINER - Ask to spend a few days at the farm of a trainer you admire - with or without your horse. Take some lessons on her horses. Watch her while she trains. Ask alot of questions and offer to help in the barn.

MEET IN THE MIDDLE - Some coaches will agree to let you pay a coaching fee and join their students for help at the horseshows. You may not receive the individual attention of a private lesson, but you also have the opportunity to watch him coach other students and to observe other professionals showing in various classes.

ATTEND CLINICS -This is another good opportunity to ask questions and learn from others. Take good notes so that you can practise the things you learn at home.

HOME STUDY - Stock up on the most current books, magazines and videos. I have learned so much just by experimenting and seeing what works. Ask someone to videotape you.

It will take some initiative and perseverance for your daughter to excel without a local coach, but those are qualities that any parent would be happy to see developing in their child - it might be a blessing in disguise!

Q. My horse tends to buck and misbehave when cantering. This happens mostly when we are going to the left. Any suggestions?

A. This is a common problem many novice riders have related to cantering. The increased pace and resulting instability of the rider magnifies problems that might bot be seen in the walk or trot.
First, it is wise to rule out any physical discomfort that could contribute to your horse’s behavior. Some ideas:

• Teeth: Have your vet check for irregularities that could cause pain, especially when traveling to the left.
• Back: Chiropractic care, acupuncture, and medications prescribed by your vet, are some typical approaches to a back pain diagnosis.
• An ultrasound may uncover internal problems such as an ovarian cyst.
• Saddle: Pressure points caused by an ill-fitting saddle can affect your horse the way uncomfortable shoes affect you. Talk to a reputable saddle maker for some guidelines to determine proper fit. I choose a gel pad to accommodate a horse who’s not custom-made for my saddle.

As a trainer of a horse with a inclination to buck, I’d make sure the following “bricks” are well laid in my training foundation:

Hip control: Starting with a turn on the forehand, and advancing to cantering with the haunches in, control of the hind quarters will prevent your horse from “fishtailing” and serve to strengthen the weaker lead. Bulging to the outside of a circle (usually towards the barn), lack of forward motion and bucking are often related problems.

A system of yes and no: A horse soon learns that by bucking, he can displace his rider’s leg, thereby giving himself a reward! Throughout the buck, say “no” by sending him forward with his hips to the inside, using your outside leg firmly (and spur, if necessary) behind the girth. The second he softens and canters forward calmly say, “yes” by softening your leg and relaxing your body. Timing is the key – with a few repetitions, he’ll get the picture.

Q.I show in both English and Western events. I would like to have a professional looking braiding and banding job but my efforts always look a little “amateurish” Any hints?

A. Following are some ideas that have helped me in my struggle over the years to braid and band with some success.

BRAIDING

1. Keep the braid as tight as you can in the first inch. Doing so keeps your braid from twisting and requires mighty thumb strength
2. Braid close to the neck. Don’t pull the braid toward you as you go.
3. Use cotton string in a colour that matches the mane. String doesn’t stretch as much as wool, and has enough thickness to grasp easily.
4. Use water or Quick Braid spray.

Keep the mane short. Longer braids tend to twist more easily.

BANDING

1. Divide hair sections with a comb or bobby pin to keep the part between the sections straight.
2. Keep the unbanded mane away from the section you are banding with a clip or bobby pin.
3. Keep your fingers pressed against the neck as you are twisting the elastic. This holds the ponytail against the neck. Don’t pull out toward you.
4. Use water or Quick Braid spray.
5. Resist the temptation to form bigger and bigger bands as you or your horse becomes impatient.

As with anything practise is the key. Use the off season to practise when you’re not under the pressure of time. And don’t dismiss the idea of hiring a professional for that true professional look. What you spend may be worth the anxiety you avoid

Q. I sent my Quarter Horse gelding to a trainer two weeks ago and I thought I would ask your advice about a concern I have. My gelding is extremely quiet, almost lazy, and never spooks at things. I have ridden him on the trails, lead my young nephew around on him, and can even ride him bareback with just a halter and lead. I sent him for training in order to get some finishing – neck reining, collection, lead changes, in order to be able to show him this season. The trainer reports that he is having some “attitude” problems with him – kicking out at his leg, and sulling up to the point of rearing a bit. Should I take my horse home before it gets worse? I realise that I will lose my month’s training money, but he’s never done this kind of thing with me.

A. I can understand your concern about your horse, but before you sever ties with your trainer, you might want to consider some things. Now firstly, I’m assuming you did some homework before sending your gelding away. Does this trainer have the reputation of producing happy, well educated horses - not just what he’s told you, but the track record over the years to back it up? Does he have a clientele of loyal, satisfied horse owners? Is his character honest and straightforward? If so, it takes backbone to tell a customer the truth when things aren’t going well instead of tickling their ears with what they want to hear! Try and be there at least once a week to watch the progress for yourself.

From a trainer’s point of view, I can tell you that the education process of a horse often gets worse before it gets better. I regularly see the scenario of a home raised and broke horse, accustomed to marching to his own drum, realising that he’s not in Kansas anymore when he finds himself answering to the trainer each day. As he shows his displeasure with the boundaries that the trainer sets, things can get a little nasty as a contest of the wills, in which the trainer must win, ensues.

It is the nature of the training process to push a horse out of his comfort zone. Typically, day to day stable activities and trail riding don’t do this. He must be taught to yield to pressure in his mouth and sides without hesitation. He must be taught to respect, and watch his trainer and wait for him to make every decision from the moment he is led out of the stall, ridden, fed, or handled. He must answer “yes” to every request, from the smallest pressure on his halter in the barn aisle to increasing his canter stride in response to the rider’s legs, to yielding to the bit when asked to collect.

A wise trainer will know when to take a risk and push the horse out of his comfort zone and when to wait, letting the horse soak in something that he has learned. To demand too much is inviting rebellion, to demand too little is wasting the customer’s money.

Q. My gelding is getting crabby. Although he’s obedient to ride, he doesn’t have a happy expression, he pins his ears in the barn aisle and in his stall and is impatient in the crossties. My trainer continues to ride him for me several times a week to keep him tuned up and I ride at least five days a week to keep in shape. Should I back off the training over the winter to give him a holiday? Do horses get the “February blahs”?

 A. With decreased turn out time and daylight, I do think horses get a little crazier – don’t we all!?

The first plan of attack with most problems is to consider a physical discomfort. Have your vet do a work up on your horse to rule out such things as joint pain or muscle pain. Have her draw blood to rule out elevated muscle enzymes or a number of other things.

Next, have your trainer watch you as you work your horse on the ground. Many instructors neglect to talk about the importance of ground obedience – remember the horse you lead is the horse you ride. He sizes you up the moment you lead him out of his stall. “Is this person below me on the hierarchy scale? Can I get into her space and push on her? Can I make her move away from me?” Sporadic or ineffective correction will only reinforce undesirable behaviour. Yelling at your horse when he paws in the crossties or giving him the occasional slap with your hand will only make him tougher. Be completely consistent, keeping the correction swift, sharp enough to assert your authority, and without emotion.

Take the time over the winter months to retrain annoying behaviour. Have a plan. Define your expectations. Work with your horse standing ground tied while grooming inside an imaginary box on the floor. Do you allow him to walk off while you put on his blankets or visit the horse in the stall beside him? Work on having him accept being clipped and bathed like a gentleman – something I’ll bet you don’t have time for in the summer.

Teach some new skills. Work on showmanship turnarounds and setting his feet square within three seconds. Practice on the trail bridge and set up elevated walkover obstacles – you can work on these from the ground as well. It’s possible that giving your horse a change of pace from the under saddle work will refresh his attitude and paying attention to discipline may adjust his attitude!

Q. How do I ride circles that are perfectly circular? Mine have a tendency to look more like the letter D than the letter O, as my horse seems to be influenced by the direction of the barn.

A. Most horses tend to cut in on one half of a circle and “bulge” out at the other half. If your horse have bulging problems he most likely gets magnetized toward the fence, the in-gate, or toward another horse. Comparing your horse to a train, I’ll give you some tips to improve your control and be able to keep your horse on the track of your choice.

1. Define your train track. The old adage “If you fail to plan, you can plan to fail,” applies here. You must decide exactly the path you want your horse to follow. This involves looking ahead and planning your route. I suggest my students make an imaginary dot in the dirt approximately 30 feet ahead of them and direct the horse’s feet to step right on that dot. How deep into the corner do you want to ride? How many feet away from the horse you are passing would you like to be? Would you like your horse to jump exactly the center of the fence? Vague plans from the rider produce vague responses from the horse. Imagine your path as a train track and keep your horse between the rails.

2. Direct each train car. If you visualize your horse’s head as the first car, his neck the second, followed by his shoulders, rib cage, and hips, you need to have the ability to control each section. Usually when a horse is bulging to the outside, the rider pulls on the inside rein. The rein, however only controls the front train car and the rest of the cars continue to leak out , off the track. Usually with every bulge comes a slowing in pace and you can bet that if your horse is going to break from a canter to a trot, for instance, it will be when he’s being magnetized toward the gate. Control over your horse’s shoulders, ribs and hips is what you need to realign your train. This can be achieved by exercises such as turn on the forehand and haunches, and leg yields, and by making sure your leg and rein cues are clear and distinct so that your horse understands which section of his body you want him to move. Build this control in at the walk first and eventually working up to the canter.

3. Anticipate the bulge. Knowing that your horse tends to drift towards the barn or overshoot the corner on your approach to a jump, decide to ride the curve straighter instead. I suggest to my students that they ride such a curve instead as a series of straight lines (resembling a stop sign) Limit the bend in your horse’s body using your outside hand and leg, even going so far as to ride him completely straight (envisioning him between the shafts of a buggy) if he’s a determined bulger. This technique works for riding small circles that your horse would like to “enlarge.”

Using these techniques you should be able to keep your horse on track!

Q. I moved my gelding from my trainer’s farm closer to home after the show season so that I would be able to ride more often. I also thought that it would be a nice break for him to be in a less regimented program (for instance, less time standing tied and more time turned out.) I’m wondering if I’ve made the right decision because he’s becoming increasingly harder to handle, both in the barn aisle (pawing and nipping at me in the crossties) and when I’m riding him (rooting the reins out of my hands and just generally being distracted.) Is it better for him to remain in training year round?

A. There are some really good reasons why riders take their horses out of training for a time and it sounds like you have your horse’s best interest at heart.

Some of my customers, in an effort to conserve family finances, take their horses out of training for the winter. This is one of the ways they wisely cut corners in order to make their horse fit into their budget rather than visa versa!

Others, want to have more time in the saddle, getting to know their horses for themselves. Personally, some of the greatest gains I’ve made as a horsewoman have been by taking a concept I’ve learned in my head and experimenting with it (yes, and making mistakes) until I’ve adapted it for my own program. Success comes from taking some risks and sometimes failing - these risks are seldom taken when under the watchful eye of your trainer.

Some people, like you, want to give their horse some down time from the strict discipline of a trainer’s routine – all work, no play. They want to give their horse time to mentally and physically relax.

As with most things, however, there are often drawbacks that accompany these benefits.

In my columns and teaching, I’m frequently reminding riders that we train horses with the knowledge that they operate within a hierarchy system. Like waltz partners, you are either the leader or the follower, and as a rider you have to be the decision maker. From the moment you lead your horse out of his stall, you are asking him questions – “Will you come forward, slow down, lower your head, move your body over”, etc. Many amateur riders don’t recognize when their horse is answering “No” until it becomes really annoying or even dangerous. Remember how it works in the herd – the Alpha horse “moves” the subordinate horse with an ear pinned, teeth bared wave of her head. If the underdog retreats, she usually goes back to peaceful eating, if he stays put or, at his peril, challenges her, a chase ensues. As long as one horse can, through body language, move another, he is the leader.

Taking this back to your horse, watch carefully to see if he pushes back into you when you ask him to move over. Does he keep straining against your hand to look at the horse in the stall by the crossties or bully you along as you lead him in from the paddock? Does he raise his head against initial pressure from the lead shank or lower it thoughtfully? The horse you lead will be the horse you ride – think about how many hundreds of requests you make of your horse to yield to pressure before you even get on his back! Because a good trainer automatically moves around a horse with the confident body language of the leader, asserting his authority when challenged and being soft when obeyed, these issues of bossiness don’t rise to the surface as often. A good trainer will be able to communicate this to you – knowing the reasons WHY it happens can alleviate frustration.

Some horse owners think this is unkind to be so demanding with horses, failing to realize that this is the language horses understand. Think of it like this – picture yourself standing in a crowded elevator when your boss, the CEO of the corporation, enters and stands right beside you. He smiles politely, then reaches into your personal space to push the elevator button. Naturally, you step back a bit to give him some room. Imagine if you shoved him out of the way, or even worse, elbowed him sharply. This is what your horse is doing to you rather than respecting your authority and yielding every time he feels pressure on any part of his body.

If your horse is a bold, assertive type, he may not do well on the “home visit” plan and may need to return to the trainer for maintenance training if you are going to enjoy him. But it may well be that with some attention to these details, you can establish that you are the dance leader.

Q. My daughter is graduating from the novice youth/ 13 and under division to the 14 – 18 age category next year, which I understand is highly competitive. She loves riding and is talking about a career in horses someday. We would like to support her as we are able and encourage her to develop the skills a good rider needs to have beyond the technical help her instructor can give her. What makes a really good rider?

A. Your daughter is really fortunate to have parents that are helping her to see beyond the immediate goals of the show ring to the big picture – setting goals, using your gifts to the best of your ability, and developing character along the way. I thought about the qualities that I have seen my most successful students have or even over the years. Beyond putting them in the winner’s circle, these traits will help them to be winners in life!

SELF ESTEEM. No one likes a puffed up, cocky person (You know, the kind of people that have to put others down in order to make themselves look good) Such a person is unteachable and instead tries to impress others with their knowledge. This kind of person often goes way over the top with disciplining horses and bullies their students or other people in the barn. Ironically, this kind of person is usually overcompensating for a poor self image, but easily sways and deflates those with fragile egos. Neither extreme makes a good rider. The very sensitive person takes criticism too personally, and is so afraid of failure that they refuse to take any risks.

FOCUS. We concentrate so much on keeping our heels down and hands steady that we sometimes overlook the powerful tool of the mind. A good rider can block out the distractions ( spectators, ring conditions, the events of the day ) and focus on the moment at hand. To stick to a lesson plan while schooling or the game plan you rehearsed while in the show ring, takes discipline. To prioritise the urgent over the important and choose the best over the good is absolutely necessary to succeed over the long haul.

KNOWLEDGE. Having a well rounded education in business, equine nutrition, shoeing and vet care is a must. Experience in other riding disciplines provides a wide base from which to draw ideas for riding and training. A good horseperson is always learning.

PATIENCE. In our drive through world filled with quick fixes and miracle diets, good riders by contrast, enjoy the process en route to the goal. Training is most successful when one proceeds step by logical step. If you only get a three percent improvement each day, that’s a big jump by the end of the month. There is a temptation to ask for too much in a training session or to skip steps. I have a personal rule that although sometimes you have to take risks, more is generally accomplished when you don’t ask for anything of your horse you think you might lose. Emotional anger has no place in training horses. Although occasionally we have to deal aggressively with a horse, a patient person can shut it off in three seconds and carry on as if nothing happened. A patient person can step back and objectively ask “Why isn’t this working?”

ENDURANCE. Horse training and showing involves toughing it out when we are cold, hot, tired, in pain, hungry or scared. You have to be fairly hardy to be a horseperson.

DISCIPLINE. The ability to follow routine and have good habits is essential with horses. Whether in feeding practises, health care, record keeping or training schedules, horses (and customers!) are creatures of habit. Good riders don’t take short cuts in safety, and are prepared for emergencies.

RISK TAKER. Although playing it safe is the general rule of thumb, a talented rider has a good sense of when to push the limits. To practise things out of your comfort zone , to go that little bit further, and to be innovative is good horse sense and business sense.

GOAL ORIENTED. Whether short term (the lesson plan for today), long term (qualifying for the youth team this season) or lifetime (having my own farm and breeding top reining horses) goals are important to keep a rider on track. Goals need to be realistic based on the horse’s ability, your finances, time and the other people in your life. Sadly, I have seen too many people alienate their children and spouses by failing to consider them in pursuit of their goals. A successful horseperson is well grounded. Even if your daughter doesn’t choose a career in the equine industry, these life skills will enhance any career choice she makes.

Q. I recently purchased a horse and would like to find a riding coach who would help us reach our potential. Where do I start? A. Following are some questions to consider as you search for an instructor who will meet your needs.

1. What are your goals? Do you want to compete or simply learn to work in harmony with your horse by way of weekly lessons? If you do wish to compete, choose an instructor who regularly attends the type of shows you wish to participate in. He can help you with everything from entries, to your attire, to a game plan before you enter the ring. What is her track record? Are her students generally successful? If so, this may be an indication that what she preaches really works! If you don’t wish to compete it can be pretty frustrating if your instructor is away at horse shows so often that you can’t schedule regular lessons.

2. What is your learning style? Are you motivated by praise and positive comments? Are you sensitive to criticism or does it stir you to push yourself harder? As a student, I didn’t care much for small talk during a lesson but wanted as much concrete, honest critique as I could to take home and work on until the next session. Some people prefer a more casual pace to their lessons. I don’t believe anyone likes to be yelled at or belittled. Watch different coaches in action and take note of their style. A good coach should be able to read their students and tailor their style somewhat to meet their needs.

3. What is your best learning environment? Are you a people person or a loner? Do you prefer a coach with a busy, active barn or a quieter learning environment? Do you prefer group or private lessons? For many people, having other riders around with similar goals is a great asset. Others like to have their instructor’s undivided attention.

4. Does the coach give good value for your lesson dollar? Ask to observe a lesson of a coach you are considering. Is each lesson well planned with a variety of exercises and skills taught? Is there a logical reason provided for a skill that is taught as well as an application (in what situation would I use this skill?) Is there a summary at the end of the lesson and suggestions of what to work on in the week to come? The lessons should start on time and be mostly uninterrupted ( by telephone calls, visitors etc.) Make sure you can understand the terms he uses.

5. Does the coach ride and compete? Although there are some successful instructors that do not ride regularly I know from personal experience that it is only from having ridden a student’s horse myself that I can tailor my instructions to fit their specific need. Sometimes I will get on a student’s horse in the lesson to demonstrate a skill and give a step by step description of what I’m doing. Sometimes it’s quite an eye opener for me to experience from the saddle what couldn’t be seen from the ground! The drawback of having an instructor who competes is that sometimes their energies are divided at horse shows between their students and the horses that they are riding themselves. Finally, try a lesson with a prospective coach and see what you think.

Q. How can I have the quiet hands the judges are looking for in equitation classes? Mine bounce around. Are there any exercises you could suggest?

A. More important than the look of still hands is the function of still hands. Your hands communicate slow, turn, collect etc to your horse. When the horse responds to your request, you deliver a reward, or pause in which your horse finds freedom. So, you see, you’re always speaking a clear language of “no” and “yes” to your horse. Unsteady hands are like background noise which drowns out your signal.

Still hands are the result of elastic arms which follow the movement of your horse’s head. Also, if your seat is bouncing in the saddle, you won’t be able to keep your hands from bouncing, either.

The first step is to develop a deep, secure seat in the saddle. Learn to follow the motion of the horse. Try sitting trot without stirrups (no pain, no gain!) and concentrate on not locking up your lower back and hips. Once you’ve mastered the shock absorbing action of following hips, it’s time to work on those elastic arms. Try posting with your fingers touching the mane or the saddle pad (whatever you can reach comfortably) With your hands in one place, you will have to open and close your elbow as you rise up and down. Now raise your hands a bit so they’re no longer touching. Can you recreate that feeling of keeping your hands in one place? Do this every time you want to deliver a “yes” to your horse.

Q. I am looking at buying a horse to compete in novice events. He is exactly what I am looking for except that he cribs. My friends advise me to steer clear of him. Would you ever consider buying a horse that is a cribber?

A. Always keep in mind that you will never find the perfect horse, but, as I’ve reminded people in past columns, be unwavering in your top priorities, whether they be temperament, talent, tolerance, or training.

Often I advise my clients to settle for a horse that isn’t their ideal age, or perhaps isn’t the best mover, or has some soundness issues if he excels in several other categories. I have worked with some very suitable horses in my career that were, unfortunately, also cribbers.

When a horse cribs, he grasps a fixed object with his incisor teeth and sucks in air with a grunt. There are many anecdotal stories about this vice – that it causes impaired digestion, colic, flatulence, worn teeth, etc. In my personal experience, I have not seen any horses with this habit having these problems. Although cribbing can be lessened by using a cribbing collar, it is not a habit you are likely to break.

Studies show that it is a pleasurable activity for the horse, raising the beta-endorphin level (the body’s own narcotic.) It seems to be related to boredom and also seen more often in horses fed a high simple carbohydrate diet (one high in sugars found in grain rather than the carbohydrates found in hay.)

We tend to keep our horses in an unnatural environment (limited access to free grazing and exercise, while feeding concentrated grain) which may predispose them to vices of this kind. Increased forage and roaming can help.

To summarize, I would consider buying a horse that cribs, understanding that when I go to sell him, this vice may deter a segment of buyers. More than likely the fact that he cribs isn’t going to sway the judge or get in the way of my riding enjoyment .

Q. At our barn there is a “tongue in cheek” policy is that anyone who falls off during a lesson has to buy their instructor a Coke. Is falling off to be taken so lightly? As a novice rider can I expect to fall off regularly?

A. Falling off hurts! It can shake a rider’s confidence so much that many choose to abandon riding altogether and can scare their horse, too. I hate to see a student fall off, I hate to fall off myself, and so I do everything I can to minimize risks and lay a strong foundation.

Part of the stretching and growing process is in taking risks. What a sense of accomplishment to successfully face our fears and go for it! But it is the instructor’s or trainer’s job to determine which risks are appropriate.

In my program, we lay a solid foundation of understanding and build upon that like a flight of stairs, by challenging the rider or horse with a new skill as they master the step before. For example, we wouldn’t go on to a skill at the canter until it was going well at the trot. Also, as an airplane has all it’s controls tested before it is allowed to take off, I make sure students have an understanding of the “three P’s” before we fly up to the next level.

PACE, PATH, AND POSITION
Pace is the rhythm that the rider decides his horse should move to. The key is that the rider picks the pace and has the skills to adjust his horse, matching it exactly. If a rider is having trouble achieving a slow, sitting trot, he’ll be out of control at the canter.
Path. If each section of the horse’s body is compared to a train car, path is the track, and lateral control describes a rider’s ability, through use of different aids, to keep each car on the track. Without mastering this control how can you direct your horse to the center of a jump? Horses that “bulge” toward the gate or pick up the wrong lead can be corrected if the rider understands lateral control
Position refers to collecting a horse, similar to a coiled spring, which increases maneuverability and responsiveness. Stepping into a canter (without the mad trot beforehand), and accurate turns all require a measure of collection.
Position also points us to the rider’s position on the horse. A rider who isn’t firmly anchored on the horse with independent control of her hands and legs is heading for a fall . The principles of centrifugal force and inertia that we learned about in science class come to life when riders try to eliminate important steps .

AFTER A FALL
 If a fall does happen, the old saying is to get right back on. I can go along with this principle ONLY after taking some time to analyze what went wrong. What were the steps that led to the incident? How can it be prevented? Do I need to drop down some steps to rebuild the skills and confidence of my horse and myself?. Becoming an accomplished rider skill by skill may not appeal to thrill seekers, but, like the Tortoise and the Hare, slower is faster in the long run!

Q. I trailer my daughter’s horse to a local coach for lessons every other week . How can she best make use of her practise time in between lessons? Do you suggest riding every day or every other day? Although I am not a horseperson, do you have any suggestions for me to help her prepare for her next lesson or horse show?

A. It is a real asset for a young person to have a parent who is so supportive of their riding. Conflicts can be kept to a minimum if you’re careful to keep your role separate from the coach. (Failing to do so is sure to result in “Well I’d like to see you do it, if you think it’s so easy!”) Here are some suggestions.

TAKE NOTES DURING LESSONS Summarize the main points and record excersizes to practise at home. Briefly meet with the instructor and your daughter after the lesson and ask what he would suggest she work on in the week to come. Remember, your job is to help your daughter to formulate a practise plan but not to instruct her.
VIDEOTAPE THE SESSION. Have your daughter watch the videotape by herself (without family, friends and other commentators.) This will give her an objective view of the skills that are looking good and those that need work.
DECIDE ON A PRACTISE SCHEDULE. I have found that schooling several days in a row accomplishes more than an every other day plan.
PRACTISE THE UNCOMFORTABLE. Most people have the tendency to keep repeating what they already do well. A profitable practise session also involves what doesn’t come easily. Encourage your daughter to push herself to practise skills more challenging ( slower, tighter, faster,etc.) than she may encounter in competition.
COME UP WITH A LOGICAL PLAN. Every rider should have a lesson plan for his horse before he begins to work. Your daughter should be able to articulate what skills she will be working on before she climbs aboard. Teaching or refining her horse’s skills could be broken up with three minute segments of position strengthening exercises for herself (riding without stirrups, two point position etc.) Each skill can be broken down into a repetition of simple tasks. For instance, building blocks for flying change work would be hip control, leg yielding and counter canter.

Along the way a rider is bound to hit a snag. Often my practise session doesn’t go exactly as planned because there will be a skill that the horse doesn’t perform well or doesn’t quite understand. Then I will backtrack and break down the skill into simpler parts. I may never complete the lesson plan for that day because I had to go back and “plug the holes” but I see the lesson plan as a guideline only and not etched in stone and I’m ready to adjust it if need be.

Q. I recently bought my first horse. He is so easy going - he never spooks and I feel completely safe with him. The negative side is that he is so lazy, I get exhausted trying to keep him in a canter. Is there anything I can do to pep him up?

A. Riding should not be an aerobic workout like riding an exercise bike. In order to have a more enjoyable ride and a more responsive horse, it will help to picture your horse within an imaginary box. This is a helpful image for any skill you are trying to teach your horse because horses seek freedom and you can show them how to get freedom inside that box . When you ask a horse for a response to your aid ( your hand, leg, etc) and he moves in response to your aid, he should find immediate relief. If he doesn't respond, your aid should increase until he does. Let's apply this to your horse that doesn't want to go forward. As it stands now, you're squeezing, pushing and kicking until you're red in the face and your horse isn't bothered enough to do anything about it. The same quality you love about him that makes him unflappable and trustworthy also makes him unconcerned about your leg. If your leg represents the back of the box, your horse has become quite content to rest on it as he would on the butt bar of a trailer! You need to "resensitize" him to your leg. After all, if a horse can feel a fly on his side, he can feel your leg!

First of all, use your leg in such a way that it is very uncomfortable to lean on. Whatever you have to do to irritate him, do it. This may involve reinforcing your leg with a dressage whip, increasing your spur size, lifting up your heel in order to make contact, etc. Turn up the volume until he responds and the instant he does, be silent (remove your aid, drop your heel and soften your body.) I call this "squirting" your horse forward like toothpaste out of a tube. Once he gets the picture, you will be able to use far less "squirt" Maintaining the canter rhythm will change from "I can't take my leg off or he will fall out the back of the box" to " He contacts the back of the box every time his rhythm slows and promptly moves forward into freedom."

Q. My gelding won't trot willingly beside me for showmanship. I don't have the strength to pull on him any harder and when I snap on the lead shank he tosses his head and stalls out. Once I get him in motion he is great for the rest of the maneuvers - turns, backing etc .

A. This question is much the same as the previous one and once again you will use the principle of the "freedom box." When your horse resists coming forward you will inspire him to do so by dialing up the level of discomfort, and immediately releasing the pressure when he trots. Your timing is the key. Following are some DOs and DON'Ts.

DO make sure your horse accepts lead chain pressure under his jaw before working on "comealongs."
DO make sure you have been very clear with your body position that you intend to run forward. Remember, always be clear to your horse and always give him ample warning before any reinforcement. I always say to my showmanship students, "Body first, hand second."
DO apply firm steady pressure under your horse's jaw which he can immediately relieve by coming forward, similar to being tied to a wall. Keep your right arm straight until he trots and then soften it right away like a spaghetti noodle.
DON'T jerk. As you've already learned, jerking activates a horses flight response - he will react in fear and toss his head upward.
DON'T whip him with your lead shank behind your body. Doing so will only teach him to swing his hip away from you.
DO pull out the big guns if necessary. With an experienced horse that understands completely the cue to go forward, I may casually toss a little stone at the back end of a student's horse after she has asked him to trot forward. If my aim is good I can remain at a distance so that the horse has no idea the stone came from me. I suppose a water gun might work in the same way… Timing is the key.

Q. I have done most of the training on my 4 year old gelding myself. He will move off my leg, do a turn on the haunches and jog pretty slow. I can't seem to slow his lope down. When I try, he just breaks into a trot. How do I keep it together?

A. You're on the right track when you used the word "together". To simply pull on the reins will (as you have discovered) only cause your horse to fall out the back door into a trot. If you imagine your horse in a box, he will be able to find freedom when he remains inside the boundaries, in this case at a certain length of stride. It's important to build the right foundation - you need to have the tools to ask him for this work.

First, let me remind you to keep your expectations realistic. Not every horse is physically capable to lope slow enough to be a competitive western pleasure horse. Horses that are suited to western pleasure WANT to lope slow more often than not and naturally don't have much of a motor. It is frustrating to try to fit a square peg into a round hole as you ask your horse to travel at a pace he can't deliver with quality. The result will be an artificial, four beat canter.

Any horse, however, can be asked to slow and compress their canter within a certain range. It's great that your horse already knows how to move off your leg laterally. That is one of the building blocks necessary to do this work. You should have control of your horse's hips as well. A horse who is "fishtailing" his hips to the outside of the track will be unable to compress his stride. Start with turn on the forehand work.

Make sure he reliably goes forward immediately when asked and that when you send him forward into the resistance of your hands, he collects his frame and gives to the bit. It sounds like he's already comfortable with slowing the trot.

To slow the lope you must resist every time your horse is travelling too quickly (while maintaining the canter rhythm with your leg and seat) and provide freedom every time he slows his stride. He will eventually see a pattern developing and will seek the freedom of remaining slow. This sounds simplistic, but it's pretty common to see a rider hanging on her horse's mouth while the motors around, oblivious to her wishes.

It's important that the resistance you use to slow your horse is enough to get his attention. Squeeze the muscles in your hands closed and move them steadily back in a straight line toward your hips until your horse acknowledges you. He may try many escape routes - head up, head down, break to a trot,etc but only relax your muscles when you feel him take a smaller canter stride. Immediately allow your arms to flow with the motion of his head and neck. Start the process again and he will start to understand where the freedom box is.

Q. My eight year old daughter is showing in walk/jog this season. What tips can I give her?

A. It's important to remember to keep it very simple when instructing children. I usually give the young ones only two or three things to think about before their class. If you break down the things they need to remember about correcting their position into a simple three point checklist, they can keep repeating it to themselves as they travel around the ring. For example let's say a child needs to remember to focus ahead on the path in front of her, to turn her hands so that she can see only her first two knuckles rather than her fingernails, and to keep her lower leg back so that she can't see her toe poking out in front of her knee. Her checklist might be "Head, hands, heels."

Although friends and family like to be around to cheer on the youngster, it's usually best to limit the visiting until after the class so that they can focus on their game plan. I think one instructor and one groom is all that need be involved in the pre - class preparation. After the class, focus on the positive by asking what she liked about her class, and then follow by discussing one or two things she might practise for next time.

Q. I have a western pleasure prospect that I am considering sending to a trainer. Although I am quite a capable horse woman I am not an expert, when it comes to starting horses under saddle. In the interest of saving money and keeping his stay at the trainer's as short as possible, what could I accomplish at home before he goes to the trainer?

A. There are quite a few things that horse owners can do at home to assist the training process. Saddling and riding is one more step in the horse's education (which largely consists of yielding to pressure and counteracting his "fright - flight" instinct.) What separates a trainer from a novice is the timing and intensity of their cues and rewards. Although I appreciate certain ground work done on a horse that arrives at my place for training, this work attempted by a novice can actually make things more difficult. Undesirable habits or even fear can develop as a result of a person delivering cues at the wrong time and in the wrong way. Here are some skills I make sure are in place before I climb aboard.

RESPECT FROM THE GROUND - With the horse by my side, I will walk forward and stop making sure that I don't have to use the lead shank to cue him at all (basic showmanship training) He knows where his freedom box is because I consistently correct him when he steps out of it and reward him with freedom when he remains inside. He should ground tie in the barn aisle. He should back up willingly with minimal touch from the shank.

LONGEING - A prospect should longe well and respond to voice commands and body language. The commands "whoa", "cluck", "kiss" should have specific meanings and should get an immediate response (no nagging!) Put in another word of your choice for a downward transition, and that should just about do it. I'm not a big fan of chattering to horses as I think it desensitizes them when you really want to say something.(Like the Boy Who Cried Wolf) The youngster should move forward when your whip swings toward his hind end and away from you when it points toward his shoulder. He should easily maintain a balanced canter until you ask him to trot.

GIVE TO PRESSURE - After becoming comfortable wearing a snaffle bridle, a horse should yield to backward pressure in his mouth, He should give softly to one rein pulled from the side I usually drape my arm over the far side of the saddle while standing on the ground and hold one rein in each hand, asking the horse to give from side to side. I ask him to back up in response to pressure with both reins. Mission accomplished when you feel no resistance, mouth gaping or head raising. I ask the young horse to step away from my hand pressure on his side, shoulder, or hip without hesitation.

TYING UP - Only after a horse is familiar with giving to pressure in every area of his body will I tie him up. I expect him to tie in a stall or at the side of my arena wall.

SADDLE - I make sure the horse is completely comfortable with the saddling process and longeing - even with the stirrups bouncing. Often I will tie grain sacs to the saddle horn, filled with jingling items that the horse learns to tolerate rather than flee from.

TRAVELLING IN A FRAME - With sidereins I want a horse to be very comfortable travelling in a frame on the longe line. I make sure that he will calmly do canter to trot to canter transitions developing his own balance and self carriage.

With these skills in place, your trainer can progress sooner to under saddle work. Skipping these steps leads to a rougher education process for horse and horseman.

Q. I have a 12 year old niece who is an intermediate rider and I would like her to be able to take lessons on my horse (which I show in amateur events) and possibly work toward showing him in some novice classes this year herself. My trainer doesn't like the idea, claiming it will "mess him up" for me. Could it really make that much difference?

A. It's a great thing that you are willing to share your horse with your niece. Spending time together at the barn and the shows is a great way to build your relationship as you work towards a goal. The character qualities young people can develop in the activity of riding will make this opportunity a gift you can give to her and her family.

Giving a gift however always costs the giver something. Your trainer has a point in having a concern that by riding your horse your niece may take something away from his training and your own performance. As long as you understand what's happening from your horse's point of view, when a novice rides your horse, you have the information to make your decision.

Every time someone works with a horse, they are either making a withdrawal or a deposit to the horse's training, similar to a bank account. Training, in simple terms, is really a language of yes and no. For example, I'll ask the horse "Move your hip this way," " Yield to the bit on this side", "Lengthen your stride." Depending on his response, I will give him either a "yes" (freedom) or a "no" (resistance)

Knowing the appropriate timing and intensity of the yes and no is something that comes with experience. A novice rider might use too harsh a cue and surprise the horse, or so slight a cue that it goes unheeded. An unheeded cue that doesn't get reinforced by a stronger cue can soon become a bad or even dangerous habit.

For instance, when a horse balks in response to his rider's cue to go forward and it is not smartly sent forward, it can turn into a habit of rearing. When a horse leaks his hip to the outside in response to the rider's request for a canter departure, it needs to be contained by the rider's outside leg or it can be the root of picking up the wrong lead, kicking out or bucking. A novice rider might not notice when a horse loses rhythm in the canter, "bulges" out toward the barn, or hollows his back. Suddenly the horse realizes that there is an escape route that never occurred to him before!

An inexperienced rider is in the process of learning to keep her hands and legs steady and working independently of one another. This makes her language "chattery" as she attempts to communicate with the horse and he will respond either by becoming oblivious to the rider, or by over reacting. Consistent repetition (saying "yes" and "no" in the same way every time) is a vital key in training and maintaining the training of a horse. A novice rider is unable to deliver that consistency and it can be confusing to a horse.

Now that you know the possible negatives of having your niece ride your horse, take a look at the big picture and ask yourself with regard to your horse hobby - "Why am I doing this anyway?" If your main purpose is to win an award or a title and your goals are very specific, you need to cut out anything that might hinder that goal. In such a case maybe you could tell your niece that for this season, she can stick to learning on a school horse. I know of some amateur competitors who have gone to the extreme of buying a practise horse to put their miles on in order to leave their good show horse exclusively to their trainer so that he performs practically on "auto pilot."

However if, like many riders, the process of learning is just as important as the result, and you value sharing this experience with your niece, your trainer will have to work on a plan to keep putting training deposits back into your horse's account. If your horse is older and more experienced, he will tend to be more tolerant of mistakes and the responsiveness should return pretty quickly as soon as an experienced rider gets on and reminds him of the boundaries. If your horse is more green and impressionable, I would recommend that as soon as you see him pushing any limits with your niece, you or your trainer get on to nip this in the bud in order to maintain his sharpness.

Q. How can I achieve that floaty, extended trot that I see some horses do in Hunter Under Saddle classes? My horse seems to trot faster and often breaks into a canter. Could this be because she's just not naturally long strided enough?

A. In order for a horse to lengthen, rather than quicken his stride he needs to understand a few things first. He must know how to go forward promptly and obediently in response to his rider squeezing with both legs He must be able to move his head, neck, shoulders and hip laterally , yielding to the rider's cues. He must also be calm, with a soft and relaxed back. A horse that is fresh or edgy is too tense to give you a long, swinging trot.

Keep in mind that your horse is going to trot to the tempo of your posting rather than you posting to the tempo of his trot. Keep counting rhythmically and slowly like a metronome and squeeze the horse forward with your legs in the sitting phase of your posting trot. When you feel him "squirt" forward in response to your squeeze, lower your heel to give him a reward for a few strides before you ask again. Nagging a horse by squeezing every stride with your legs will only desensitize him. Your horse will lengthen his frame - let him reach and fill up the frame without letting your reins go slack ( a common mistake). You will need to maintain some contact in order to keep him straight and maintain the rhythm.

Q. I recently bought a gelding that has been shown a bit in western riding, although he was not completely "finished" in this event. My problem is that he seems to be a little too eager to do flying changes. He wants to do them before he's asked and even when I don't want him to change leads at all!

A. Anticipation is common in horses because they are creatures that learn by repetition. Your horse will likely need to have a part of his training foundation rebuilt but first you will have to pinpoint why the problem has occurred and then tackle it from there.

I have found horses anticipate for basically two reasons. Often a horse will learn a skill or a maneuver without completely understanding it. I call this being "trick trained". It's like the person who learns to play a song on the piano by memory, but doesn't know the names of the notes or how to read music. For your horse, it's possible he knows the "how" but doesn't understand the "why" or "when" so he doesn't really listen to your aids and throws in a flying change when it's not called for. We also see this when showmanship horses set up automatically but have no understanding of how to move each foot at a time in response to the handler's cue. Or the trail horse that learns to negotiate the gate on auto pilot without waiting for the rider to move the hips, shoulders, etc. step by step. When these horses have their routines upset, ( ie the horse is required to back through the gate or the gate is used as a part of another obstacle) it creates anxiety.

Another reason horses anticipate is they associate the skill or maneuvre with pain or surprise. The horse that rushes over a jump doesn't do so because of the thrill of jumping but more likely because he has been bumped in the mouth by unsteady hands or scared by another mistake. Often riders assist their horses to change leads by an abrupt change of direction, spur or by throwing their weight over toward the new lead. How can you go about rebuilding his foundation? Here are some suggestions.

MIX IT UP .Often horses associate a lead change with a certain location. Perhaps coming across the middle, in a corner or in between two pylons. Do lots of counter cantering, circles and leg yields at the canter and throw in a flying change every now and then.

BE CLEAR. It's important that you're very specific in the position of your legs. Your outside leg will be behind the girth and your inside leg will be farther forward in order to remain on the lead. If your signal is unclear, your horse will be guessing. If your signal is abrupt your horse will get scared. The moment my horse does the change I will soften my body. This exhale communicates "yes" to the horse.

WATCH FOR WARNING SIGNS. If your horse starts to raise his head or his stride starts to get light and hoppy, he is thinking about changing leads without being asked. Don't let him change when it's his idea. Just confirm the lead you're on with your outside leg back and change when he's settled. As flying changes become less of a big deal, and as your horse becomes really confident in the meaning of your aids, your flying changes should happen when and where you want them!

Q. My gelding is great to ride and has lots of personality but can be frustrating to work with on the ground. He plays around when we practise showmanship and is always trying to nibble at the chain and at my hands. I became very concerned yesterday when he actually bit my husband while he was holding on to him. He's never bit anyone before - what should I do?

A. I've come to realize that when people say their horse has "lots of personality" they usually mean he is the busy, mouthy kind that likes to play with people's jackets, cross ties, broom handles etc. Nibbling isn't cute, however, and, as you discovered, can quickly turn into biting.

You've probably seen two geldings sparring and playing "halter tag" with each other out in the pasture. If you allow your horse to rub or nibble on you, you become his equal rather than the herd leader. In the horse's hierarchy system the leader doesn't allow subordinates to play with her or push her around in any way. The underdogs are always respectful and attentive to the leader and wait for her to make the decisions. Recognize the warning signs in your horse before a bite ever happens. It always begins as a thought . He may put his ears back or toss his head in your direction. Do you step back ? This would indicate to him that he can dominate you. Why not instead ask him for a skill to replace his thought with the idea that you are in control? Ask him to move over, lower his head or back up - yield to pressure in some way.

 Keep your hands out of temptation's way. Imagine your horse's head in a box and stay out. I don't ever let my horse's touch or rub on me - I'm off limits. Be consistent. Don't allow him to nibble on you ( or perhaps let friends or family play with his muzzle) and then punish him for doing the same thing at showmanship time. And I feel that feeding treats or any between meal snack only makes a horse with an oral fixation worse. I personally never feed my horses treats.

If he does bite, you must treat this aggressive action with an aggressive reaction. It is the language horses understand. Hit him (not in the head) in a way that will sting and scare him. This cannot be a half hearted slap which he will only interpret as a game. Also avoid constant jerking on his chain - this just irritates him. Make sure that the discipline follows the offence within two seconds (preferably sooner) and afterward don't hold a grudge - just carry on as if nothing ever happened. This is the way the herd leader would react if another horse bit her, or the way a mare would keep her foal in line if he got a little cocky.

Q. Do you think riders should uses draw reins and martingales?

A. Draw reins, martingales, spurs, crops, etc. are artificial aids. Their purpose is to reinforce the rider's natural aids. They have their place providing several things are in order first. The horse should have a good understanding of the rider's language. If you don't understand Russian and someone yells at you in that language it will either scare you or annoy you, but you won't do what they say. Similarly, draw reins, a bigger bit and spurs are meant to amplify signals that your horse already understands.

The rider should be experienced. Seasoned riders differ from novices in the timing and intensity of their cues. They know when to say "yes" and when to say "no". They know the adequate degree of pressure to use to get the desired result. In an inexperienced rider's hands draw reins, martingales, etc are likely to either make the horse dull and apathetic, or afraid.

Q. My daughter has been taking riding lessons for some time now and at each lesson I hear the trainer remind her about her position - heels down, thumbs up, shoulders back, etc. When I asked my daughter the reasons for such attention to a rider's position, she really couldn't tell me more than "That's just the way you do it." Can you help this horsey mom understand?

A. I missed out on the "whys" in my riding school days as well. It's a shame because giving some relevance to the "hows" makes the concepts easier to learn. So let's take a look at some principles of correct rider position and I'll explain why they work

Eyes and Head - I tell my students that where they look they will go. It does no good to look down at the pylon you don't want to run over or the fence post you don't want to hit. Neither does it help to look in mid air between the horse's ears. Instead, find a dot in the dirt approximately 40feet ahead to chart the path in front of you. If you are riding a curve, this will mean turning your head. "Big eyes" take in all that's going on around you in your peripheral vision and prevent collision with other riders.

Upper Body and Seat - Your upper body needs to be stretched up as if someone were lifting you up by the ears, stretching the curves out of you spine. Leaning forward puts your weight over the horse's forehand There is a balance between straightness and stiffness. A stiff back can't follow the horse's movement and absorb shock.

Hands and Arms - When riding with two hands (either western or English) the rider needs to maintain a straight line from his elbow, to his hand and through the rein to the corner of the horse's mouth Riders that hold their hands either above or below this line sacrifice strength for decreasing the horse's pace or sensitivity for asking him to collect. It is important to communicate "yes" immediately to your horse after he has responded to your cues. Many riders forget this positive reinforcement and end up hanging on their horses' mouths in tug-of-war fashion. I teach my students to return their hands to "home" position, over the withers as soon as their horse has responded. Hands are held with soft wrists and at a 45 degree angle whereby only the first two knuckles are visible when glancing down. If the thumbs are turned in toward each other, the elbows will stick out. Keep a soft, straight rein - neither skipping rope loose, nor guitar string tight In order for you to be able to do this without bumping accidentally on your horse's mouth you need to develop the same kind of "following" sensitivity that you use when driving in your car over train tracks with a cup of coffee in your hand.

Legs - A rider who has his ear, shoulder, hip and heel in a line perpendicular to the ground is in balance and isn't likely to fall forward or backward. I mostly see riders with their legs too far forward so that if they glanced down they would be able to see their toe poking out in front of their knee. Stirrup leathers (or western fenders) should be perpendicular to the ground. Stirrup length is a few inches longer for western than for English but with either discipline, your knee and ankle joints need to be bent in order for them to function as shock absorbers.

It takes a bit of practise to push your weight down into your heel. This deepens and strengthens your leg. I like my riders to turn their toes out a little bit which flexes the ankle in and enables you to use the back of your heel and the tip of your spur to communicate more effectively to the horse. A "toe in" position causes the rider to pinch the saddle with her knee, losing contact and stability with her calf.

In lessons, I give my students various exercises that address any position problems they may have and we work on them in three minute segments, like commercials in between other work we are doing. This avoids muscle fatigue that could lead to sloppy practise, developing another bad habit en route to correcting an existing one.

Riding in , and practicing correct riding position is like a carpenter skillfully using his tools and keeping them sharp. This enables you to ride effectively.

Q. The show season is over and I don't plan to show again until the spring. What is the best plan for my horse over the winter? Do horses benefit from a lay - off, or is it better to keep them in training so that they don't get rusty?

A. Here in Ontario in the winter months the show season, for most people, comes to a halt. The benefit is that it gives us an opportunity to assess our goals and make whatever changes are necessary. Sit down and ask yourself what it is that you enjoyed most and least about the past show season. What are your future goals? How can you best meet your goals, taking into consideration budget and time commitments? For some people this will mean starting with a new horse. Perhaps this would be a good time to change the program or direction with the horse you have.

Changing the program can include a number of things. Sometimes a horse may have minor soundness issues that need to be looked at. Experimenting with shoeing or other medical procedures may not be practical or affordable while competing because sometimes things get worse before they get better. X rays, supplements, alternative therapies, or even surgery, may be beneficial at this time. The off season is a good time to address a training issue that has been put on the back burner. Sometimes you need to come at one of these issues from a different angle or experiment with different techniques or equipment. Again, things often get worse before they get better so this is sometimes not practical to"open up a can of worms" in the middle of show season. I often take in a winter training project from a long distance customer who may not want to part with their horse during the summer months. This is a good opportunity to get to the root of a training problem or introduce a new skill or event (flying changes, pattern classes, work over fences etc)

Giving your horse a complete rest, with turnout only, can be beneficial for some horses - especially a seasoned horse who knows his job. You can supplement with some longeing, tying up in the arena etc. I think this is a better alternative to sporadic riding. I find that a horse who is off work takes too much longeing before he is settled enough to learn anything and this is probably harder on him than regular work. Some horses take too long to bring back after a lengthy time off and with these, continuing to train throughout the winter is a good choice. Keeping in mind that " A change is as good as a rest," try varying the program by experimenting with new skills. I have my students start jumping or cantering poles. Some start on trail obstacles or switch from english to western or vise versa. You may discover that your horse has an unknown talent!

Finally, a rider benefits from a change in the routine as well. I'm sure that by riding the same number of horses year round I would lose my creativity and enthusiasm. Catch up on some reading about new techniques or visit other trainers and ask questions. Enjoy the winter.

Q. When a turn on the forehand to the right is called for in an equitation class, does the horse move his quarters to the right or his forehand?

A. In a turn on the forehand to the right, the horse moves his hips to the left, away from the rider's right leg. In a good turn, the horse's front right foot steps in place while the left makes a tiny circle around it. The horse's head should be slightly flexed to the right and remain steady and non - reactive as the horse takes steady even steps.

Q - My horse paws when standing on crossties and it drives me crazy! How can I get her to stop?

A - Does your horse paw while standing in the crossties or when tied? This is an annoying habit that begins when horses are impatient for something - often food. If a horse ever feels he has achieved something by pawing, his behaviour will be reinforced. It's important, then, to never feed him or untie him immediately after a bout of pawing.

I find that horses in my training program seem to get tired of this behaviour and it usually disappears because they are never fed between meals and we teach them to be patient.

Horses who are not fed treats never think about food between meals and therefore don't become anxious for it. Just like those of us who try to give up sweets, coffee, or smoking become restless when a craving hits, horses fidget and paw when they want something as well. For this reason, I never give horses hay nets while standing tied to the horse trailer. If, at the horse show, there are no stalls in which to eat their meals, I'll feed hay inside the trailer so they won't be impatiently digging holes outside.

I feel horses should spend some time each day standing tied either in the indoor arena or in a stall. They soon realize that they can't change the agenda by pawing. No one comes to untie or feed them when they do. This is much more effective than yelling at them or spanking them every time they paw because you must be close enough to deliver the reprimand instantly for it to be effective. It usually takes several weeks after kicking the treat habit and being tied as a daily routine for this habit to cease.

Q - Is it beneficial to lunge my horse before riding him?

A. - Lunging, is an exercise that has many benefits. I lunge most of my training horses each day before I ride them because it gives me the opportunity to observe and assess them before climbing aboard.

Much of what I know about horse movement and behaviour I gained from hours spent lunging many different horses. By studying their horses on a lunge line, riders can observe from the ground what they feel from the saddle. How does the two-beat rhythm of the trot differ from the three-beat rhythm of the canter? I'll have my students count and step in time with their horses' footfalls. What does it look like for a horse to be cantering on a disunited lead? Did they notice that he bulged his shoulder to the inside just before he cut into the circle towards them?

A spook or buck can be nipped in the bud by a lunger who has learned to observe her horse's body language and facial expression. A fresh horse won't be able to concentrate on the day's lessons until he's had an opportunity to "get the bugs out". Lunging also gives the horseman a chance to detect any stiffness or lameness in his horse before mounting. Much can be communicated to a horse through body language - this is, in fact, the primary way horses relate to each other. Advancing towards him to move him out of the circle and retreating, (lowering your whip and eyes) as a reward for his correct response, moving behind him to accelerate and toward his head to teach him to stop - these are some ways you speak to your horses without words.

Experimenting with the intensity of your cues (your whip, voice and body language) will minimize your horse overreacting and will produce fluid transitions in pace. Becoming a proficient lunger enlarges your horsemanship skills beyond riding. It's worth taking the time to lunge!

Q. - My horse is dull and doesn't listen to my legs. Should I use spurs even though they make me nervous?

A. - Many a horse that is labeled as "lazy" has become that way because the rider doesn't expect him to listen to lighter aids and that's when riding becomes and aerobic workout! If you, like most riders with this problem, feel that you're muscling your horse through every ride, you need to turn down your volume and your horse needs to turn up your receiver. On a scale of one to ten, I expect horses to respond to my number two leg aid. I reason that if a horse can feel a fly on his skin, he can certainly feel my leg, so if he doesn't respond, my leg doesn't irritate him enough. I will reinforce my "request" with a stronger "statement" and then a "demand". Now, the level of irritation that motivates him to respond is going to be different for every horse, and that's where the subject of spurs comes in.

With a horse that is very sensitive, or with a rider with strong legs spurs may never be necessary. But if your legs are not strong enough to reinforce your first request, your horse will never take your first cue seriously. An artificial aid such as a whip or spur will provide the irritation that your leg cannot.

Before suggesting a student wear spurs, I first make sure they can consistently ride with a deep heel so there is not danger of poking the horse by mistake. They must have lower leg control so that after they have used their spur they can say "yes" to their horse by lowering their heel and spur.

I would suggest you start with your spurs worn low on your boot so that you have to lift your heel a bit to make contact, and that you begin with shorter, blunt spurs. With consistency, your horse will learn to listen for your "whispers" rather than your "yells".

Q. - My mare won't stand still when I'm mounting. She walks off as I'm swinging my leg over and I'm afraid she might take off before I have control.

A. - You are wise to nip this problem in the bud because it can, indeed, become dangerous. In order to correct it, you are going to have to train your horse to always focus her attention on you, and to get used to waiting patiently in a variety of environments.

I teach any horse to be mindful of me at all times just as she would always be mindful of the "alpha" mare in a herd situation. For example, she must stay in the "safety zone" by my side when being led, and not talk to stable mates when being ground tied for grooming. This attentiveness, shown by active ears that turn back to listen to me regularly must be well ingrained before I ever put my foot in the stirrup to mount. If your horse is more concerned about her buddies in the barn than about you, she will scoot away as soon as you are midway through mounting and are at a physical disadvantage to control her.

I feel horses develop patience to stand and wait by being tied regularly in their stalls, the arena, or another safe environment. Once these disciplines are in place, have a helper hold your horse while you begin to mount without actually swinging your leg over. Repeat this stage over and over until your horse will stand and eventually you can mount fully while your helper takes a less of an active roll in holding your mare. Be careful not to reward your horse inadvertently by allowing her to turn to face another direction or take any steps. You can accomplish this by never progressing to the next step before you've mastered the immediate one. Once successfully mounted, resist the urge to ride away. Get off and try again a few more times. When you are ready to ride make sure you, rather than your horse, make the decision to take the first step, and ride off in the direction that she would least choose to go - probably away from the barn.

Q. - My mare seems to be afraid of other horses when they are ridden too closely. I usually ride alone, but how can I get over this by show season?

A. - Horses that I train are worked in the presence of other horses even before the first ride. Turning your mare out with other horses is a good idea, but I realize that if she is blanketed and is shod behind, it complicates matters. I ride the horses that I'm training around horses that are being longed, ridden or standing tied in the arena. Try tying your horse up while others are ridden around her. We also "pony" or lead one horse while riding another. Just make sure that the horse you are riding is tolerant and reliable, avoiding any aggressive "vibes" which would intimidate your mare. I will often ask another rider if they can spare ten minutes to ride tight beside me while I school my horse on the rail. Your goal is to provide consistently good experiences for your horse in the presence of another and to teach her to carry on about her business no matter who is beside her.

Q. - How can I teach my horse to lope slow enough for western pleasure?

A. - First you must ask yourself if your horse is physically able to lope slow enough for this event. Horses that are suited to western pleasure WANT to lope slow more often than not and naturally don't have much of a motor. It is frustrating to try to "fit a square peg into a round hole" as you ask your horse to travel at a pace that he can't deliver with any quality. The result will be an artificial four beat canter.

Any horse, however, can be asked to slow and compress his or her canter within a certain range. To do this, you must resist every time he is traveling too quickly and provide freedom every time he slows his stride. He will eventually see a pattern developing and, seeking freedom, will choose to remain slow. This sounds simplistic but I frequently see riders who think they are following this pattern but are not.

It's important that the resistance you provide to slow your horse be enough to get his attention. Many a rider hangs on her horse's mouth while he flies around the ring oblivious to his rider's wishes. If your horse doesn't respond to the squeezing of your hand muscles and locking of your arms to slow him, increase the resistance to his mouth steadily until he acknowledges you. Be sure to sit deeply in the saddle and keep him going forward with your leg so that he doesn't break into a trot or "fall out the back door". Once you do feel him rock back and shorten his stride, immediately relax your arm muscles and allow them to follow the motion of his head and neck as he lopes. It's important that all rewards are issued the moment a horse responds positively so that he relates his response to your reward. The timing and intensity of your rein aids is the key to slowing your horse.

Q. - I ride my 4 year old gelding in a bosal or snaffle bit for western events. When should I switch him to a curb bit?

A. - Teaching a horse to neck rein in a curb bit, which is any bit which operates on the principle of leverage, using a curb strap, is the next step in the education of a western horse who has a solid foundation of steering and pace control. I'll explain why and when to take this next step.

Why? The action of a curb bit enables the rider to use less hand motion to achieve collection, slowing of pace or direction change that a snaffle affords. The leverage action magnifies the rider's hand so you can ride with more subtlety and lighter rein contact, desirable in western events. You will notice a greater response from your horse, achieving lightness with far less effort.

When? I make the transition from snaffle to curb in the three year old year of most of my western horses, but if he's happy and responsive in the snaffle or bosal, I may leave him in that for a while longer. Some horses get overbridled with too much arch in their neck when ridden in a curb and look prettier in a bosal, while others get dull and heavy and need to be switched to a curb which helps lighten their forehand.

Horses in my program are ridden with one hand when they're ready to show in pattern classes such as horsemanship, trail or western riding where they'll need more of a "handle" for intricate steering and flying changes.

Answer the following questions before you change bits on your horse. Does he understand lateral work - how to bend his body, and move his ribs or hips away from my leg aids at all gaits? Does he understand how to back up, and slow and compress his stride without resistance? Stronger bits are not a short cut to teaching these skills; they just reinforce the rider's request. However, a stronger bit in the sensitive hands of an educated rider can be an effective tool.

Q. - I will be taking my horse to his first horse show next month. How can I make sure he loads on the trailer?

A. - The secret to successful trailer loading depends on a few principles of good horse communication. Loading a horse on a trailer isn't so much a loading problem as a leading problem. Your horse must always come forward when asked or else he meets with steady resistance provided by your hand pulling on the shank. The instant he comes forward, he gains relief - the shank goes slack. If you are always consistent in this process from the moment you bring your horse out of his stall, he will figure out that his freedom zone is by your shoulder and the route to freedom is to come forward rather than argue with the pressure.

All the horses on my program are handled this way, and I haven't seen one yet that has had a trailer loading problem. A horse must learn that he can never try to escape your personal space because you are his herd leader and there are consequences to being inattentive to the herd leader's boundaries. As you lead your horse to the trailer, reinforce the idea of rewarding every small step while resisting every step backward.

Never set yourself up to lose a battle with your horse. Make small requests and reward the right response.