Question :

     I am starting out as a trainer by taking on some horses for a nominal fee in a large boarding stable where I keep my own horse. Because I'm starting out, I find myself having to cater to the opinions of the horse owners even if I don't necessarily agree with them. One thing I hear from time to time, in a barn of mostly female horse owners (I am a male) is it that the horse is afraid of men. Do you think some horses are afraid of men, or do they just have a nervous temperament?

Answer :

     I also hear people speculate that a horse has been abused or is afraid of men (I can't use the latter as an excuse). It is always a balancing act in any customer service industry between catering to the wishes or beliefs of the clients and sticking to what you believe is right.

    I question whether a horse is afraid of a man, per se, or the manner in which a person moves. Horses do have excellent memories. If a horse has had a bad experience he will be wary when that situation comes up again. Fear can be triggered by environment, smells and sounds from a unpleasant incident. This can be over – ridden by many good, safe experiences over a period of time.

    So a horse may not be remembering the gender, but the person with a deep voice, or who moved in a certain way, or who used a twitch on his lip.

    We always need to remember that horses are flight animals – prey, never predators. Consequently abruptness and aggression can trigger their flight response. People that move smoothly (don't confuse this with being wimpy) bring out the calm in a horse. I remind all my students that everything we ask of a horse is on a scale of 1 – 10. If you jump the scale, you surprise the horse.

    We, as the herd leaders, need to be assertive and clear without being alarming, especially in the case of a sensitive horse. Horse gain confidence from predictable leadership.

    Men tend to be stronger and heavier – even in the act tightening a cinch, or swinging up into the saddle. I regularly remind students (mostly men, but some women) to lighten up and slow down.

    Although it's convenient to blame past training mishaps on gender, I'm confident you'll be able to set the record straight by operating in a systematic, consistent manner which will inspire confidence. Be careful to reward every right response. May your new training business flourish!

Question :

    I recently bought my first horse. He is so easy going – he never spooks and I feel completely safe with him. The negative side is that he is so lazy, I get exhausted trying to keep him in a canter. Is there anything I can do to pep him up?

Answer :

    Riding should not be an aerobic workout like riding an exercise bike. In order to have a more enjoyable ride and a more responsive horse, picture your horse within an imaginary box. This is a helpful image for any skill you are trying to teach your horse because horses seek freedom and you can show them how to get freedom inside that box. Self carriage describes a horse who maintains his pace, straightness and frame or outline when you lighten up on your aids. You're not really riding until you take the training wheels off!

     When you ask a horse for a response to your aid (your hand, leg, etc) and he moves promptly in response to that aid, he should find immediate relief. If he doesn't respond, your cue should increase until he does. Let's apply this to your horse who doesn't want to go forward. As it stands now, you're squeezing, pushing and kicking until you're red in the face and he isn't bothered enough to do anything about it. The same quality you love about him that makes him unflappable and trustworthy also makes him unconcerned about your leg. If your leg represents the back of the box, your horse has become quite content to rest on it as he would on the butt bar of a trailer!

    The trick is to "resensitize" him to your leg. After all, if a horse can feel a fly on his side, he can feel your leg!

     First of all, use your leg in such a way that it is very uncomfortable to lean on. After requesting with a light squeeze and perhaps a cluck, whatever you have to do to motivate him, do it. This may involve reinforcing your leg with a dressage whip, increasing your spur size, lifting up your heel in order to lift up a roll of his skin, etc. Turn up the volume until he responds and the instant he does, be silent (remove your aid, drop your heel and soften your body.) I call this "squirting" your horse forward like toothpaste out of a tube. Once he gets the picture, you will be able to use far less "squirt" Maintaining the canter rhythm will change from "I can't take my leg off or he will fall out the back of the box" to "He contacts the back of the box every time his rhythm slows and promptly moves forward into freedom."

Question :

    We are from the northern region of the province and there are no coaches in the area who specialize in my daughter's discipline of riding. Any suggestions to help her succeed in her riding?

Answer :

    Although living away from the hub of equine activity can be a challenge, it is possible to map out a plan to suit your needs. The inconvenience and cost of travel to shows and training help is, no doubt, discouraging. Here are some suggestions that have worked for long distance clients of mine, and ideas from amateur competitors I've spoken with who come from remote locations.

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• BOARDING SCHOOL
• Some people opt to send their horse to the trainer of their choice no matter what the distance. If this is an option for you and you don't mind being apart from your horse for several months, keep the lines of communication open with the trainer. Ask him what would be a convenient time to call and telephone for an update each week. I often send customers dvds of training sessions. Travel to the trainer for lessons if you can, and ask to see your horse worked before your lessons. Watch the trainer work other horses and familiarize yourself with his program. Ask if there are horses you can practice on while you're there to further saturate yourself with the system that your horse will be learning. Take notes so that you can carry on with the same program when you bring your horse home.
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• WORKING STUDENT
• Ask to spend a few days at the farm of a trainer you admire – even without your horse. Take some lessons on her horses. Watch her while she trains. Ask alot of questions and offer to help in the barn or groom at show for her in exchange for this mini clinic. Now go and apply the principles you learned on your own horse.
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• MEET IN THE MIDDLE
• Some coaches will agree to let you pay a coaching fee and join their students for help at the horseshows. He will give you a game plan before your classes and give suggestions to fix minor issues. You may not receive the individual attention of a private lesson, but you also have the opportunity to watch him coach fellow students and benefit from their camaraderie and experience. Stand at the rail and study the top competitors showing in various classes. Practice placing the class and then review the judge’s score cards, if you can, and benefit from the feedback.
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• ATTEND CLINICS
• This is another good opportunity to ask questions and learn from others. Take good notes so that you can practise the things you learn at home.
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• HOME STUDY
• Stock up on the most current books, magazines and dvds. I have learned so much by reading about various methods, experimenting and seeing what works. There's a wealth of online info about bits, tack, and horse health care. You can research current trends in your show discipline and get the viewpoints of judges and winning trainers. Ask someone to tape you, especially at he shows. Review the footage, compare your look and performance with the other competitors you've seen and record specific changes you'd like to make. Record again, after the changes and see if it looks better. I often review tapes of my classes and training sessions with an objective eye, making changes in the horse's frame, pace or my position, retaping and reviewing as necessary.
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    It will take some initiative and perseverance for your daughter to excel without a local coach, but those are qualities that any parent would be happy to see developing in their child – it might be a blessing in disguise!

Question :

    I've heard you say longeing is beneficial, but isn't just getting on and (trotting the bugs out) as effective? When longeing at a horse show, my horse frequently turns around on me, or is so distracted that I'm scared he might run into another horse. Also, isn't longeing stressful for the horse's legs?

Answer :

    I feel very strongly about the positive effects of longeing, both for the horse and for the rider. It is worth perfecting the skill!

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• For the rider.
• I have learned so much about horses by longeing. I have studied their reactions and body language, noting the signs of stress, relaxation, aggressiveness, and exuberance. I have been able to compare the movement of hundreds of different horses, pinpointing strengths and weaknesses in their ways of going, and analyzing their soundness. Subtle lamenessness can be identified on the longe line but missed under saddle. I have, through the longeing process, established myself as the herd leader whose body language needs to be watched at all times. I frequently see capable riders who aren't horsemen – they've skipped the groundwork necessary to teach them the subtleties of horse language – advance and retreat, ask and withdraw. I've also, kept myself safe! I won't climb aboard a horse that's distracted, not yielding to pressure, or way too fresh. In short, I want him to be ready to answer yes to my every request by the time I mount up. Otherwise I'm setting the horse up to ignore my cues like a Mom who wants to talk to her teen about his exam study plans at Disneyworld.
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• For the horse.
• Longeing, if done correctly, initially teaches a horse to discipline, balance and organize himself in a frame at all gaits and in transitions, without the added stress of a rider. Going back to these building blocks in his foundation at the start of a session or in a new environment says, (Even though you're experiencing sensory overload right now, let's remember those skills you're familiar with, here, just like we do at home.) The language we use on the ground is the language we use under saddle, and at home, and at a horse show. Logical progression is really the fastest way to train. Skipping training steps ultimately leads to having to step backwards in the process – a false economy. Now let's take a look at some longe line lapses…
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• Out of control.
• The horse is oblivious to the trainer and whirls around at his pace of choice (usually whinnying). Remember that groundwork is a time to remind your horse to respect and focus on you (the leader) no matter what the environment. When the Alpha herd member sends the signal, the other horses move out of her space and similarly your horse must retreat when you advance. When you move towards his shoulder and point your whip, make sure he steps away from you, widening the circle. Never step back from the horse to keep your longe line taut – move him away from you. When you step and point your whip toward his hind end, you should expect him to accelerate promptly. If he ignores your cluck and raised whip, immediately flick him with the tassel, but only enough to wake him up, no stagecoach cracking! His ears should be always tuned in to you, and checking in for your slightest voice commands. I like a horse to remain perpendicular to me when he stops. Turning in towards me opens the door to "fishtailing" the hind end and possibly turning around, as your horse does.
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• Mindless miles on the odometre.
• Here, longeing is simply excersize – a way to wear the horse down without thought to any training. Instead, ask your horse some questions to get him in tune with you… Will you move away from me? Will you move forward? Will you slow down? Change your location – longe around the perimeter of the ring.
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• Constant dialogue.
• Keep your commands simple. Horses understand tone, rather than the words themselves. Like the Boy Who Cried Wolf, chattering so desensitized to your voice that he won't respond when you really mean it. In my program "fairly universal", a cluck means to move or accelerate, "whoa" is for a complete and immediate stop, kiss is for canter, and a long "Aahh" sound (as in waaaaaalk or traahht) signals a downward transition. Any voice commands that my horse ignores will be reinforced with my whip or pressure from my longe line.
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• Tug of war.
• I insist that the horse find his own balance and doesn't pull on me; the longe line is always slack between him and me. Leaning on my hand will teach him to lean on my aids under saddle. Using a chain across the nose gives me more control if I need it, and I am very careful that my hand communicates a thoughtful "resist and release" – my horse feels no pressure from the chain as long as he stays within the perimeter of the circle.
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• Fishtailing and "playing".
• My horses can save their bucking for the paddock. If they're fresh they can trot all they want, but it's ripping around on a tight circle that causes the strain to joints. I keep my horses straight by travelling in long straight lines if possible (more like line driving) and using side reins to "keep his train cars on the track".
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Focused and purposeful longeing is a great horse training tool, helping to keep you safe, and your horse, sound!

Question :

    How can I have the quiet hands the judges are looking for in equitation classes? Mine bounce around. Are there any exercises you could suggest?

Answer :

    More important than the look of still hands is the function of still hands. Your hands communicate messages such as slow, turn and flex to your horse. When the horse responds to your request, you respond with a reward, or pause in which your horse finds freedom. So, you see, you're always having a conversation of "no" and "yes" to your horse. Unsteady hands are like a background noise which drowns out your signal. Still hands are the result of elastic arms which follow the movement of your horse's head. Also, if your seat is bouncing in the saddle, you won't be able to keep your hands from bouncing, either.

     The first step is to develop a deep, secure seat in the saddle. Learn to follow the motion of the horse. Try sitting trot without stirrups (no pain, no gain!) and concentrate on not locking your lower back and hips. Once you've mastered the shock absorbing action of following hips, it's time to work on those elastic arms. Try this drill: post with your fingers touching the mane or the saddle pad (whatever you can reach comfortably). With your hands in one place, you will have to open and close your elbow as you rise up and down. Your upper arm and shoulder will feel fluid. Now raise your hands a bit so they're no longer touching. Can you recreate that feeling of keeping your hands in one place? Do this every time you want to deliver a "yes" to your horse.

Question :

    My gelding won't trot willingly beside me for showmanship. I don't have the strength to pull on him any harder and when I snap on the lead shank he tosses his head and stalls out. Once I get him in motion he is great for the rest of the maneuvers – turns, backing etc .

Answer :

    This question is much the same as the previous one and once again you will use the principle of the "freedom box." When your horse resists coming forward you will inspire him to do so by dialing up the level of discomfort, and immediately releasing the pressure when he trots. Your timing is the key. Following are some DOs and DON'Ts.

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• DO
• make sure your horse accepts lead chain pressure under his jaw before working on "comealongs."
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• DO
• make sure you have been very clear with your body position that you intend to run forward. Remember, always be clear to your horse and always give him ample warning before any reinforcement. I always say to my showmanship students, "Body first, hand second."
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• DO
• apply firm steady pressure under your horse's jaw which he can immediately relieve by coming forward, similar to being tied to a wall. Keep your right arm straight until he trots and then soften it right away like a spaghetti noodle.
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• DON'T jerk.
• As you've already learned, jerking activates a horses flight response – he will react in fear and toss his head upward.
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• DON'T whip him
• with your lead shank behind your body. Doing so will only teach him to swing his hip away from you.
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• DO
• pull out the big guns if necessary. With an experienced horse that understands completely the cue to go forward, I may casually toss a little stone at the back end of a student's horse after she has asked him to trot forward. If my aim is good I can remain at a distance so that the horse has no idea the stone came from me. I suppose a water gun might work in the same way… Timing is the key.
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